The Bund is fifty-five buildings of granite and steel in a row, and it is a morning place. Come at seven, when the only people there are tai chi groups and photographers, and cross to Pudong afterwards for the same view with the lights on.
The Former French Concession is the part travellers love most and plan worst. It is not an attraction; it is a grid of plane-tree streets with lane houses, cafés in old garages and Sun Yat-sen's wife's house open as a museum. It rewards walking and punishes a bus. We give you two hours and a guide who can tell you what you are looking at, then leave you to it.
The old city around Yu Garden is genuinely worth the crowd — the Inner City wall garden is a Ming-dynasty masterpiece of compressed space and needs to be seen before you judge the bazaar outside it.
Museums worth the metro ride
The Shanghai Museum East in Pudong is now the best single collection of Chinese bronze, jade and painting in the country, and it is free with a reservation. West Bund's art corridor along the old industrial riverfront is the opposite: contemporary galleries in converted freight sheds, best done on a Sunday when the promenade is full of people doing nothing.
Then there are the water towns — Zhujiajiao thirty-five minutes away by metro, with a canal grid and a stone bridge from the fifteenth century. Crowded at ten, atmospheric at seven.